My First Visit to Bingen am Rhein – Part 2
The Mäuserturm is the iconic symbol for Bingen am Rhein. It’s now in tiptop condition following years of restoration work. 1/800s 175mm F4.0 ISO 64.
You can read my introduction to town twinning here and part one of my trip to Bingen here.
The rest of the trip was more active than the first full day, though that’s not to say there wasn’t plenty more wine to be drunk. Our second day saw us drive to the historic town of Bacharach, which dates back more than a thousand years. In centuries past it played an important role in the local wine trade as a riverside hub, with all the expected politics and taxes. Over time however it fell victim to the numerous wars between France and the German states, seeing it both occupied and ransacked many times. Its fortunes revived in the nineteenth century during the period of the Rheinromantik, or Rhine romanticism as we call it in English. It remains a popular tourist destination for both its history and beautiful Fachwerkhäuse buildings.
Bacharach is beautiful historic town popular with tourists from both inside and outside of Germany. 1/500s 82mm F4.0 ISO 64.
There are many great examples of Fachwerkhäuse in Bacharach including some of these old survivors which have fortunately not succumb to fire as so many other have over the years. 1/2000s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
Our American tour guide explaining the history of Bacharach. 1/320s 58mm F1.4 ISO 64.
Walking along the town wall we came across a model of the cable car up to the statue of Germania on the banks of the Rhine. That would be tomorrow’s activity. 1/2500s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
We were fortunate enough to have an English-speaking guide (who originally hails from the United States) who was able to show us around some of the more important spots and relay some of its history, including that of historical floods that devasted the town much the same as the numerous wars did. I would have loved to have spent more time here with my camera but alas we had to move onto one of the best views I have ever had eating lunch.
This part of Germany has a remarkable number of ruined churches and castles. The legacy of many wars with France over the centuries. 1/1000s 58mm F1.4 ISO 64.
I was surprised to learn on this trip that Bacharach is in fact the origin for the myth of Lorelei or Lore Lay as it is written here. It stems from the area being famous for maritime disasters and the name originates from the rock that sits on the bank of the river. 1/400s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
The house supposedly associated with the myth (as Lorelei’s house). The myth was in fact a nineteenth century romantic invention. 1/2500s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
The Rhine romanticism attracted all sorts of writers and artists and one of the most famous was English painter William Turner who painted no less than twenty-six views of this part of the Rhine. In fact, there is a dedicated Turner trail that takes you from Bingen all the way to Koblenz with dedicated markers for you to trace his footsteps. Perhaps that is something to explore more on a future visit. We stopped off at number seventeen, the View of Oberwesel, which gave a spectacular view down the Rhine and the fantastic restaurant there, Günderoderhaus, has a bit of cultural history of its own, having featured in the famous German film series Heimat. All very civilised.
The view of Oberwesel which was once painted by William Turner. Just stunning. 1/2000s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
Each place on the Turner Trail has a marker where you can stand where he once stood to paint his paintings. 1/2000s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
A lovely lunch at Günderodehaus. 1/320s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
Günderodehaus is also known for its association with the well known German film series Heimat which follows a family over several generations. 1/200s 35mm F1.4 ISO 400.
After heading home for a couple of hours to chill, my host Stefan and I headed round to a neighbour for a bratwurst barbeque with a few of the others from Hitchin and their hosts. Situated in an old barn on a farm it was a very pleasant slice of rural living and set Stefan and I up nicely for the evening as we headed back into town to enjoy the Winzerfest fireworks before another hearty round of wine. There were certainly no half measures for the fireworks. At times the town hall disappeared completely in sparks and smoke.
In the evening we had a proper rural barbeque on a nearby farm. 1/400s 58mm F1.4 ISO 64.
Now there’s a proper selection of Bratwurst. 1/160s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
They went all out for the Winzerfest fireworks. The illumination of the town hall was nothing short of amazing. 1/80s 35mm F1.4 ISO 800.
However it wasn’t long before it disappeared in the smoke. 1/80s 35mm F1.4 ISO 800.
The last full day was our most adventurous with a short ferry ride down the Rhine to the next town of Assmanshausen. We were not on for very long, but it was great to actually be on the Rhine all the same. Even better as we not only got a closer look at more ruined castles, but also the famous Mäuserturm which thankfully was without scaffolding after years of restoration work. Handily the names of towns are written Hollywood style on the hills for easy identification from the river. After disembarking and enjoying a jaunt through the town we took a ski lift to the top of the hill for a walk through the woods along the ridge.
Before heading onto the ferry I spotted a garden giving thanks to to Andrea and Richard Cox from Hitchin for their support. Richard was a long time patron to Hitchin Town Twinning Association and friend to many in Bingen. He sadly passed away shortly before Christmas last year. 1/320s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
A ferry trip down the Rhine is unsurprisingly very popular with tourists and the locals alike given the scenery and the lack of a nearby bridge. 1/1000s 70mm F4.0 ISO 250.
Riding in the ferry. Down below was an attractive restaurant. 1/250s 35mm F1.4 ISO 200.
And up top were great views, including of another ruined castle. 1/1600s 58mm F1.4 ISO 64.
We soon arrived at Assmanshausen where we disembarked. It’s not hard to work out which town you arrive in in this part of the world. 1/640s 90mm F4.0 ISO 200.
We were very lucky (or at least most of us were) as just after we took the lift it broke down. Although this did mean our oldest member was not able to join us and we had to meet them later at a different location. After the train debacle on the first day our view of German efficiency was certainly taking a hit. Perhaps things aren’t so bad back home in the UK after all? After enjoying the mini deer park we walked along to the Niederwald bei Rüdesheim viewpoint which gives the best views of Bingen and the Mäuserturm from on high. It also made a great rest point before we continued onto the Niederwalddenkmal where the giant figure of Germania towers over the Rhine in tribute to a unified German.
This stunning old manor house caught my eye. It’s now a hotel and I am sure a very popular one. 1/640s 70mm F4.0 ISO 250.
We quickly walked through the town and went up the hill via the ski lift. You go surprisingly low over some of the houses and gardens. 1/640s 200mm F4.0 ISO 200.
At the top of the hill we were greeted by a small deer park, complete with dispensers with feed to give them. 1/640s 200mm F4.0 ISO 160.
Walking through the woods. 1/500s 58mm F1.4 ISO 400.
A short distance away was a café where we could re-unite with the lost members of our group as well as enjoy a spot of lunch, all while listening to a live band. A very continental experience made better by the good weather. It was then time to head back down to river level via a cable car, but this time to Rüdesheim, another popular tourist destination. We didn’t have much time to explore however, before we got another ferry back across the water before heading back home. To cap off a successful trip we had one final meal with everyone in the evening, saying our goodbyes to those who we wouldn’t see in the morning.
Reaching the viewpoint on the other side of the river we could see the entirety of Bingen from on high. Click to enlarge. 1/2500s 58mm F1.4 ISO 64 two photo panoramic.
Resting at the viewpoint before continuing our walk. 1/2000s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
The mighty Niederwalddenkmal, visible for miles around. It stands in recognition for the original unification of Germany. 1/2000s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64 two photo panoramic.
Another pleasant surprise was this impromptu live music performed by a complete band. A lovely way to while away the time by the river. 1/2500s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
As I was in the group that was flying back we had a little extra time in the morning (not so for the group on the train, though thankfully this time they had no issues). Stefan dropped me off in town and I had a chance to have a proper walk around Bingen by myself, first visiting the Saint Martin Basilica before walking the entire length of the promenade along the river. In doing so I managed to find the Hitchin Garden which of course had both English roses and the lavender that Hitchin is known for. September is well passed the lavender season, but luckily there was a single stalk that was still purple.
Riding the cable car back down to the river. 1/1000s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
It’s a different setup to the one at Assmanshausen as you swoop down over the vineyards. 1/500s 200mm F4.0 ISO 250.
Perhaps the most touristy street in Rüdesheim. Although you can’t see it in this photo, the shop on the right was prominently displaying Chinese. 1/400s 35mm F1.4 ISO 80.
Finally I came across a stunning classic car. Though those four rings are known to us as the symbol of Audi this car predates that as an Auto Union 1000. 1/2000s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
The return ferry. No restaurant on this one! 1/2500s 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
The final meal with everyone before we headed home the next day. 1/250s 35mm F1.4 ISO 200.
To finish up Stefan picked me up for one last lunch along the Rhine at a spot he visits frequently. Here lies part of the ruins of the Hindenburg Bridge, built between 1913 and 1915 and destroyed at the end of the Second World War. Given the sheer scale of the rebuilding effort across Germany in the late 1940s and early 1950s the bridge was never rebuilt, and the next closest bridges are 30km away in Mainz or nearly 70km away in Koblenz. It seems slightly mad to me, but I guess it keeps the ferrymen happy.
Having a few hours in the morning before my flight I wandered around Bingen with my camera. First stop from Saint Martin Basilica, though I had to wait half an hour before it was open to the public. 1/2500 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
The inside was as pretty as the outside. 1/50 35mm F1.4 ISO 640 two photo panoramic.
Bingen was once home to a great deal of industry and these old cranes along the promenade stand in memory of that era. This one also has playful sculptures by the artist Hubertus von der Goltz. 1/640 200mm F4.0 ISO 64.
It had only been a few days, but I had thoroughly enjoyed myself, especially as it not only gave me a great opportunity to practice my German but also because it was such a radically different trip to the ones I normally go on. It gave me a newfound appreciation for a part of Germany I had previously known very little about and it planted the seeds for friendships that hopefully will continue to grow for years to come. That really is the aim for town twinning, and I hope this short series of blogs has gotten that message across. It really offers a different way to great experiences and I hope I’ve inspired you to learn more about your local town twinning association and to consider getting involved.
I finally managed to find the Hitchin Garden and to my pleasant surprise there was a single late blooming stalk of lavender waiting for me. 1/400s 200mm F4.0 ISO 200.
Eating my final lunch in Bingen I saw the ruins of the Hindenburg Bridge that wasn’t rebuilt after the Second World War. The area is now a designated nature reserve. 1/4000 35mm F1.4 ISO 64.
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